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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.